“Caves and Culture”: community-based conservation in northwest Madagascar

KOFAMA is the first community-based conservation organization, or COBA, to found its own nature reserve in northwest Madagascar.  The COBA was created in 2006 when a group of local residents in the southern Ankarana expressed interest in protecting an area of the natural landscape and creating a sustainable ecotourism infrastructure.  Over the next three years, I worked with KOFAMA as a Peace Corps Volunteer to acquire the land, and develop it into what is now known as “Tsingy Mahaloka”.  I helped to organize and train KOFAMA’s members as local naturalists and conservationists.  Some members trained as guides, others as cooks, and others as trail builders.  Using minimal funding and sustainable design and building practices, KOFAMA built a rustic campsite complete with wells, drop-toilets, and fuel-efficient cookers and solar ovens.

alternative cooking methods are modeled for the community and tourists alike

Over time we increased our membership, continually reaching out to the wider community and creating ways to involve it in our “community ecotourism” project.  KOFAMA partners with Radio Meva Ankarana to produce environmental programs for radio broadcast in the region.  We also partnered with a local folklore association to offer performances of traditional songs and dances to ecotourists.  We forged yet another partnership with a nearby eco-resort, to offer a “community immersion” experience to their guests; KOFAMA also helped Iharana to build its ecolodge, in exchange for building materials for KOFAMA’s site.  Through a partnership with the University of Western Ontario, Tsingy Mahaloka has also become the collaborative research program, where UWO students partner with students from Madagascar’s Universite du Nord to pursue field study in anthropology and conservation.

dinner with the canada crew at KOFAMA

The program also builds KOFAMA’s ability to host and assist researchers, which is important to the long-term survival of the organization and its natural area.  The founders of the program, Andrew Walsh and Ian Colquhoun, have been conducting research in northwest Madagascar for nearly twenty years; by inspiring and training a new generation of specialists, they are helping to ensure that the caves and culture of the Ankarana are preserved for posterity.

Tsingy Mahaloka offers visits inside its caves, sacred to the Antakarana people, holding tombs, artifacts, and the key to their survival as a tribe.  KOFAMA will also guide you along trails up and around the “tsingy”, or karst limestone massif, for which the region is renowned and wherein the caves lie.  Views from atop the tsingy stretch for miles, all the way across the water to the island of Nosy Be on clear days.  At dusk, groups of crowned lemurs and Sanford’s brown lemurs endemic to the Ankarana can be seen leaping through the trees and across the jagged limestone rock.  By day, guests can visit the nearby village of Ampotsehy and experience the typical local lifestyle, from planting rice, to preparing a meal, weaving with natural fibers, harvesting local fruits, or listening to local folklore.  The cool caves are perfect for exploring during the heat of the day, before enjoying a delicious meal prepared by KOFAMA.

KOFAMA office

Tsingy Mahaloka offers basic campsites under the stars, and two single-occupancy researcher bungalows complete with solar lights.  There are basic latrines, bucket showers, and hand washing stations; safe filtered water is also available, but visitors should purchase or bring bottled water if they are uncomfortable drinking it.  Limited camping gear and tents are available for rent, as well as bikes; short bike tours can be arranged with KOFAMA.  Breakfast, lunch and dinner are offered for a reasonable price, using seasonal ingredients and local cuisine.  Requests will be accommodated as best as possible, and coffee, tea, and rice are always on hand.  Transportation to and from Tsingy Mahaloka can be arranged via tractor, zebu cart, vehicle (seasonal) or guided hike.

charming, cozy researcher bungalow

Community-based ecotourism is one of the most effective ways to ensure that your visit to northwest Madagascar creates a lasting, sustainable, positive impact on the environment and the people.  Remember that every last Ariary you spend with the members of KOFAMA improves their ability to preserve the unique landscape and culture of the Ankarana region, while earning a sustainable income for their families.

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